Kota Gede also known as Pasar Gede is an area in the
Indonesian city of Yogyakarta. One of the old capitals of Mataram, the area now
has an archaeological site which contains the remains of the kraton (palace),
the royal cemetery, and royal mosque of Mataram, dated from the late 16th and
early 17th centuries.
The honorable name of this location in a higher and more
respectful level of Javanese language (Kromo) is Pasar Gede.
There are many legends and local tales connects the site
to the Mataram palace, however much of the physical remnants of the palace and
the capital city are already destroyed. The only parts that remains quite
intact are the Kota Gede royal mosque, the royal cemetery (precursor to
Imogiri), and a few sections of the original palace walls.
The city lost its prestige when the center of power was
shifted to Kartasura near modern Surakarta. The city further lost its political
and cultural significance after replaced by Imogiri as the royal cemetery for
the sultanates. Later sultanate of Mataram was split between Yogyakarta
Sultanate and Surakarta.
The Royal Graveyard holds important graves that trace
connections of Mataram with earlier kingdoms, and the placement of the graves
within the covered area of the graveyard can be considered as a physical
representation of 'silsilah' or genealogy of the rulers and their progenitors.
It is guarded and maintained by Juru Kunci who are employed by the two palaces
of Yogyakarta and Surakarta.
In mid-twentieth century, Kota Gede became synonymous with
silverworks and silver handicrafts, since the area has become the home of
silversmith in Yogyakarta. At the time of Indonesian independence in the 1940s,
and after considerable promotion and publicity to the silverworks within this
locality, Kota Gede gain popularity as the center of Javanese silver
handicraft.
During the expansion of Yogyakarta city in the late
twentieth century, Kota Gede was absorbed into Yogyakarta and has become merely
a suburb within the city.
In the 8th century, the area of Mataram (now is known as
Yogyakarta) was the center of Old Mataram Kingdom that ruled the entire Java.
This kingdom had an extraordinary prosperity and civilization, so it had the
ability to build ancient temples with an extravagant architecture, such as
Prambanan Temple and Borobudur Temple. However, in the 10th century, with an
unknown reason, the kingdom moved the center of the government to East Java
area. The great numbers of citizens left Mataram and gradually this area became
a woodland or forest.
Six centuries later, Java was ruled by The Sultanate of
Pajang which is centered in Central Java. Sultan Hadiwijaya, who ruled in that
time, gave Alas Mentaok (Mentaok Forest), which was very large in area, to Ki
Gede Pemanahan for his achievement in defeating the enemy of kingdom. Ki Gede
Pemanahan with all of his family and followers moved to Alas Mentaok, a forest
that used to be the Old Mataram Kingdom.
The small village that was built by Ki Gede Pemanahan in
that forest became prosperous. After the death of Ki Gede Pemanahan, his throne
was replaced by his son who was titled Senapati Ingalaga. Under the rule of the
wise Senapati, the village turned into a city that was more crowded and
prosperous, therefore it is known as Kotagede (a big city). Afterwards, Senapati
built an inner fort (cepuri) around the palace and an outer fort (baluwarti)
that surrounded the area of ±200 acres. In the outside of these two forts, they
are also equipped by a moat that was as wide as a river.
Mean while, in the Sultanate of Pajang there was a power
struggle for the king throne after the death of Sultan Hadiwijaya. The crown
prince that was known as Pangeran Benawa (Prince Benawa), was shoved aside by
Arya Pangiri. Afterwards, Pangeran Benawa asked Senapati for a help since the
Arya Pangiri’s government was judged to be unfair and disadvantageous to the
people of Pajang. The war started. Arya Pangiri was conquered, but he was
forgiven by Senapati. Then, Pangeran Benawa offered the throne of Pajang to
Senapati, but he refused the offer politely. A year after, Pangeran Benawa
passed away, but he had given a will that said Pajang must be ruled by
Senapati. Since then, Senapati became the first king of Islamic Mataram and was
entitled Panembahan. He didn’t want to use his title, Sultan, in order to honor
Sultan Hadiwijaya and Pangeran Benawa. His palace was located in Kotagede.
Then, Panembahan Senapati expanded the area of Islamic
Mataram Kingdom to Pati, Madiun, Kediri, and Pasuruan. Panembahan Senapati
passed away in 1601 and was buried in Kotagede next to his father’s tomb.
Afterwards, the Islamic Mataram Kingdom conquered almost the entire island of
Jave (except Banten and Batavia) and reached the highest prosperity under the
rule of the third king, Sultan Agung (the grandson of Panembahan Senapati). In
1613, Sultan Agung moved the central of the kingdom to Karta (next to Plered)
and ended the era of Kotagede as a central of Islamic Mataram Kingdom
In the later development, Kotagede remained to be crowded
although it was no longer as the capital of the kingdom. Many historical
remains such as the cemetery of the kingdom forefathers, Kotagede Mosque,
traditional houses with Javanese architecture, the topography of the villages
or kampongs that using the ancient city’s system, and the fort ruins can be
found in Kotagede.
Pasar Kotagede
(Kotagede traditional market)
The city system of Javanese kingdom usually places the
palace, the roundabout, and the traditional market on the line that stretches
from South to North. The Book of Nagarakertagama that was written in the era of
Majapahit Kingdom (14th century), told that this pattern had been used since
that time. The traditional market that had been there since the era of
Panembahan Senopati, is still exist until now. Every legi morning in Javanese
calendar system, sellers, buyers, and trading products are spread all over the
market. The building has been renovated, but the position remains the same. If
you want to explore Kotagede, you can start it from the traditional market by
walking to the South heading the graveyard, the ruins of inner fort, and the
fenced banyan tree.
The kingdom forefathers’ graveyard
Walk 100 meters to the South of Kotagede Traditional
Market, we can find the graveyard area of the Islamic Mataram Kingdom’s
forefathers that is surrounded by a tall and strong wall. The portal to the
graveyard area has the feature of Hindu architecture. Each portal has the thick
wooden handle and is decorated with beautiful carvings. Some kingdom servants
dressing up in traditional Javanese outfit guard the graveyard complex for 24
hours a day.
We can pass through
3 portals before getting to the last portal that heads to the graveyard area.
For getting into the graveyard area, we have to dress up in traditional
Javanese outfit (it can be rented there). The visitors are only allowed to
enter the graveyard on Sunday, Monday, Thursday, and Friday at 08.00 to 16.00.
For honoring the Mataram Kingdom’s forefathers here, the visitors are not
allowed to take pictures or bring a camera and wear golden jewelries inside the
graveyard. The important people that were buried in here: Sultan Hadiwijaya, Ki
Gede Pemanahan, Panembahan Senopati, and their families.
Kotagede Mosque
The exploring of
Kotagede will not be completed without visiting the Masjid Kotagede (Kotagede
Mosque), the oldest mosque in Yogyakarta that is located in the area of the
graveyard. Afterwards, you won’t be disappointed walking through the narrow
passage way behind the wall around the graveyard area to see the architecture
thoroughly and observe the daily activities of the people in Kotagede.
Traditional
House
Right across the graveyard area, we are able to see a
Javanese traditional house. However, if you want to walk for 50 meters away to
the South, you will be able to see a portal with a low hollow space and a sign
that says "cagar budaya" (=cultural preservation). Get into the
portal you will see some Kotagede Javanese traditional houses that are still
preserved well and truly used as a place to live.
Kedhaton (The
Royal Palace)
Walking to the South a bit, you will see 3 banyan trees
located right in the middle of the road. In the middle, there is a small
building that is used for keeping the "watu gilang" (a special
stone). It is a square-shaped black stone that has some written words on its
surface. The written words are arranged in a circle-like shape. It says: ITA
MOVENTUR MUNDU S - AINSI VA LE MONDE - ZOO GAAT DE WERELD - COSI VAN IL MONDO.
In the outside of the circle, there are some words that say: AD ATERN AMMEMORIAM
INFELICS - IN FORTUNA CONSOERTES DIGNI VALETE QUIDSTPERIS INSANI VIDETE IGNARI
ET RIDETE, CONTEMNITE VOS CONSTEMTU - IGM (In Glorium Maximam).
Inside the
building, there is also "watu cantheng" (another special stone),
three balls that are consist of yellowish stones. The local people had thought
the stone "balls" were the toys of Panembahan Senapati. But there is
also a possibility that the stones are the bullets of old cannons.
The ruins of the
fort
Panembahan Senopati built the inner fort (cepuri)
completed with the moat around the palace, the area covered more or less
400x400 meters. The real ruins of the fort are still seen on the corner of
Southwest and Southeast. The wall was 4 feets thick and made of stone blocks.
The rest of the moat will be seen on the East, South, and West.
Walking through Kotagede will enrich our knowledge about
the history of Islamic Mataram Kingdom that was successful in Java.
Furthermore, you can see local people’s daily routines closely. They have been
staying inside the strong wall and doing the activities since hundreds years
ago.
It is different with other places, the local people are so
friendly with the Javanese characteristic, polite, and not too commercial. In
Kotagede, you won’t be bothered by the hawkers who like to force people to buy
their things. It’s a bit surprising, or pleasing will be the right word. Who
miss the hawkers anyway?
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